Contents -- -- Acknowledgments9 -- The authors11 -- -- Introduction, or why and how one might want to study Ottoman clothes15 -- Suraiya Faroghi -- Primary sources: words and things17 -- Primary sources: images19 -- Clothing and public order22 -- Enforcing religious rulcs while presenting the self: the role of colours24 -- The use of fabrics in the culture of Ottoman dress28 -- Ottoman fashions before the nineteenth century29 -- Cultural contacts as manifested in dress30 -- Self and family, appropriately dressed: the evidence of photography32 -- A culture of poverty in the textile sector34 -- The contributions: theoretical background36 -- The contributions: making sense of primary sources 38 -- Clothing and the social order40 -- Identity, presentation of self and cultural contacts43 -- A very provisional conclusion47 -- -- The historiography of costume: a brief survey49 -- Odile Blanc -- Changing notions of 'style'50 -- Anaiyzing material remains: archeology vs. history53 -- Towards an anthropology of fashion56 -- Clothes and the body59 -- To conclude61 -- -- Furs and skins owned by the Sultans63 -- Hülya Tezcan -- Ottoman palace etiquette: which furs to be worn when?64 -- Securing supplies65 -- Manufacturing fine furs66 -- Insütuting quality controls67 -- Regulating prices68 -- Hard times and a fur trade in trouble 69 -- Working for the Ottoman palace71 -- Surviving furs in the collections of the Topkapı palace - and eighteenth-century evidence documenting the appearance of lost pieces 73 -- Varieties of decorative design: mosaics and dyed furs74 -- Some intriguing rarities75 -- Skins used entire76 -- In conclusion78 -- List of illustrations79 -- -- Female costumes in late fıfteenth-century Bursa81 -- Suraiya Faroqhi -- Estate inventories as a source for information on women's clothing 81 -- Clothing terminology84 -- Some worrisome gaps 87 -- A few conclusions, for vvhat they are worth88 -- -- The place of dress in pre-modern costume albums93 -- Leslie Meral Schick -- -- Dress codes in the Ottoman Empire: the case of the Franks 103 -- Matthew Elliot -- Dress codes for zimmis104 -- Muslims imitating zimmis and foreigners108 -- The Franks and their ügents: firmans and berats111 -- A genuine dilemma114 -- Conclusion122 -- -- Whose laws? Gendering the Ottoman sumptuary regime125 -- Madeline C. Zilfi -- The Ottoman sartorial regime 128 -- Texts and their targets 130 -- Rulers and ruled133 -- Whose laws?136 -- Conclusions139 -- -- Clothing the 'uncivilized': military recruitment in Ottoman Yemen and the quest for 'native' uniforms, 1880-1914143 -- Thomas Kühn -- -- Undressing the Albanian: finding social history in Ottoman material cultures 157 -- Isa Blumi -- Introduction157 -- Exploring social history through clothing158 -- The Malesore vs. the Albanian159 -- The imperial context162 -- Clothing terminology165 -- Hairstyles171 -- Methodological suggestions172 -- Two examples174 -- Conclusion: back to textiles177 -- List of illustrations179 -- -- How did a vizier dress in the eighteenth century?181 -- Christoph K. Neumann -- Pictorial evidence182 -- Two probate inventories185 -- Two pashas and their garments187 -- How to recognize a vizier if you see himon the street191 -- Probate inventory192 -- -- Ottoman kaftans with an Italian identity219 -- Lottise W. Mackie -- List of illustrations229 -- -- Ottoman influences in Western dress 231 -- Charlotte Jirousek -- Dress and fashion231 -- The fundamental form of Turkish dress232 -- The fundamental form of European dress234 -- Sources of fashion ideas235 -- Ottoman influences in Western dress: coats and trousers238 -- Headgcar244 -- Layering247 -- Twentİeth century: globalization of fashion249 -- List of illustrations250 -- -- A sartorial tribute to late Tanzimat Ottomanism: The Elbise-i Osmaniyye albüm253 -- Ahmet Ersoy -- The Elbise and the Ottoman scholarly mission256 -- Ottoman counter-exotica 259 -- Costume and imperial solidarity261 -- The authors and the promotion of 'national taste263 -- List of illustrations270 -- -- Illustrations271-304 -- Bibliography305 -- Index331